Friday, June 19, 2009
Gossip's Demise
Spotted: yours truly leaving Italy. Excited for the Villa Reunion Party tomorrow night in DC...
Don't Want to Land in...
It’s funny, but even when I think I’m so acclimated to a culture – not part of it, mind you, just USED to it a little – I observe something that shocks me back into remembering that I am not home. Tonight MR and I were dragging ourselves and our belongings through the front door of the Marriott Courtyard at Fiumicino, the Rome airport, and I swear I could have been anywhere from mid-Florida to upstate New York to Salt Lake City – that’s how used to the Marriott I am – but suddenly I found a sign that I was not back in the Great United States yet*. Outside of the big front door sat two flight attendants having an in-depth discussion that almost certainly covered the philosophy of gossip; none of this is shocking, I know, but here comes my reminder: they were drinking beers.
I have never seen a flight attendant in the US sit outside of a Marriott by a main road and drink beer. I’ve actually never seen a flight attendant in the US drink beer, but I assume they at least have the capacity to do so, and the point here is not the beer so much as the alcoholic content of the beer – I think you begin to understand why I did a bit of a double-take.
Anyway, on to more solid and historic (if not more exciting) ramblings: today was the day of the long-awaited Pompeii/Herculaneum trip. MR and I started the day off right by sleeping in for half an hour, and then managed to take about four hours to drop our bags off at the train station in Naples and then get back to Pompeii. To be fair, the Circumvesuviana is really rather slow, and despite leaving the Hotel del Corso in Sorrento a little after 9am we did not even arrive at the train station in Napoli until 11:15. Then we went through finding the baggage check, checking the baggage, trying to check MR in for her flight tomorrow, giving up on that, getting back to the Circumvesuviana, having to wait for the 12:11 train, and then riding that train for about 40 minutes before arriving in Pompeii. Really, they should make the Circumvesuviana go just a teensy bit faster. In a direct contrast to MR and me, it’s rather slow.
Pompeii was dry, dusty, sunny, and hot. After having finished my novel and read about half of a historical treatise on the city in the space of about 30 hours, I found myself looking around a bit warily for signs (earth rumblings, steam coming up for the ground, gods or giants cursing us mortals for always having to take our birth control when we’re hanging out in their most celebrated places, etc) that Mount Vesuvius was about to throw up on us just like it did back in 79 A.D.** I kept chanting, “I don’t know, I don’t know, I don’t know where I’m a-gonna go when the volcano blow”.
Jimmy Buffett is probably some sort of prophet. He sings about being born 200 years too late to be a pirate, but his lyrics to “Volcano” really might have been useful to the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum about 1900 years before he wrote them. Elton John knows that “If someone else is suffering enough to write it down / And every single word makes sense / Then it’s easier to have those songs around”; I think the mummified ancient Italians MR and I saw today would have agreed with EJ and would have known, “when all hope [was] gone”, to “tune in and turn [Volcano] on”***.
Pompeii itself is actually rather confusing; there are few signs around to indicate what exactly one might be looking at, which I suppose encourages visitors to splurge on tour guides, but MR and I got an inexpensive guidebook and wandered around through the dust (I pretended it was ash, and that the granite was pumice, and that, when I tripped, it was because of small earthquakes and not because I was wearing flip-flops with no tread). We spent about two and a half hours around Pompeii and left exhausted and covered in dirt (volcanic ash), and greeted the Circumvesuviana with less than excitement. The ride to Herculaneum was not long, but the walk to the site – from the train station in Ercolano to the Scavia, or excavation – took us about 20 minutes****. We thought we were helplessly lost and found that the people of Ercolano are rather unfriendly, but eventually we stumbled upon the Scavia and were let in by a bored-looking guard who barely even glanced at our tickets. I found myself wishing we had not paid.
At first, Herculaneum seemed much less exciting than Pompeii, which surprised me since everyone had told me it was the better of the two sites. Herculaneum is significantly smaller to begin with, and only a small portion of the ancient ruins have actually been excavated, so in contrast to Pompeii’s sprawl we could see all of Herculaneum when we entered and looked down. The exciting thing about Herculaneum, though, is actually that rich people lived there. Whereas all the houses in Pompeii look like they’re built for people smaller than me, the ones in Herculaneum actually seem livable. As I said to MR, it was easier to relate to Herculaneum; though Pompeii was obviously fascinating, in Herculaneum I found myself considering the atrocities of Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 A.D. and picturing the citizens who lived inside the walls.
Eventually we trudged back to the Circumvesuviana station and headed to the Naples train station, where we got our bags and boarded a train to Roma Termini. We then successfully caught the next Leonardo da Vinci train to Fiumicino, the airport, from whence we snagged a taxi (though unfortunately we ended up paying more than we said we would because we were too exhausted to haggle properly) and ended up, as this post began, at the front doors of the Marriott Courtyard*****.
And so my Italian adventure during the summer of 2009 reaches to an end. Exciting travel – for my travel days are usually the most exciting – to come tomorrow; stay tuned for my final hours from the Italian (no longer Tuscan, as I am in Rome) broadband!
*This came as even more of a surprise since MR and I were actually somewhat forced into McDonald’s for supper. Honestly, the Naples train station has a McDonald’s and a little place that sells baked breakfast breads. I should note that the hamburger I consumed was not much like the ones that the McDonalds’ in the US serve; in place of ketchup and mustard (which were 20 Euro cents extra, and I was not about to shell out $4.00 for a pack of ketchup) was some very strange sauce with peppers in it. Still, it was a hamburger.
**As I am now sitting in a Marriott, you can be relatively well assured that this did not, in fact, happen. The mountain stayed quite quiet. I ended up a little disappointed in the end by its silence. I really thought there was going to be some sort of action – hailing pumice stones at the very least – but there was nothing.
***I’m currently preparing sacrifices in the form of Britney Spears and the entire band of Nine Inch Nails to the music gods just in case they exist, because I know I’m not cut out to be a DJ. I promise, I wasn’t trying to be a DJ. I just thought it was a nice lyrical connection.
****We later discovered that this was because we were given directions on how to drive there, rather than on how to walk there. Really, the walk was only about 8 minutes. It was nice, on the way back, to cut it short a little.
*****Quick shout-out here to MR’s dad, who made the Marriott possible. IT IS AWESOME. Thank you, Mr. R.
I have never seen a flight attendant in the US sit outside of a Marriott by a main road and drink beer. I’ve actually never seen a flight attendant in the US drink beer, but I assume they at least have the capacity to do so, and the point here is not the beer so much as the alcoholic content of the beer – I think you begin to understand why I did a bit of a double-take.
Anyway, on to more solid and historic (if not more exciting) ramblings: today was the day of the long-awaited Pompeii/Herculaneum trip. MR and I started the day off right by sleeping in for half an hour, and then managed to take about four hours to drop our bags off at the train station in Naples and then get back to Pompeii. To be fair, the Circumvesuviana is really rather slow, and despite leaving the Hotel del Corso in Sorrento a little after 9am we did not even arrive at the train station in Napoli until 11:15. Then we went through finding the baggage check, checking the baggage, trying to check MR in for her flight tomorrow, giving up on that, getting back to the Circumvesuviana, having to wait for the 12:11 train, and then riding that train for about 40 minutes before arriving in Pompeii. Really, they should make the Circumvesuviana go just a teensy bit faster. In a direct contrast to MR and me, it’s rather slow.
Pompeii was dry, dusty, sunny, and hot. After having finished my novel and read about half of a historical treatise on the city in the space of about 30 hours, I found myself looking around a bit warily for signs (earth rumblings, steam coming up for the ground, gods or giants cursing us mortals for always having to take our birth control when we’re hanging out in their most celebrated places, etc) that Mount Vesuvius was about to throw up on us just like it did back in 79 A.D.** I kept chanting, “I don’t know, I don’t know, I don’t know where I’m a-gonna go when the volcano blow”.
Jimmy Buffett is probably some sort of prophet. He sings about being born 200 years too late to be a pirate, but his lyrics to “Volcano” really might have been useful to the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum about 1900 years before he wrote them. Elton John knows that “If someone else is suffering enough to write it down / And every single word makes sense / Then it’s easier to have those songs around”; I think the mummified ancient Italians MR and I saw today would have agreed with EJ and would have known, “when all hope [was] gone”, to “tune in and turn [Volcano] on”***.
Pompeii itself is actually rather confusing; there are few signs around to indicate what exactly one might be looking at, which I suppose encourages visitors to splurge on tour guides, but MR and I got an inexpensive guidebook and wandered around through the dust (I pretended it was ash, and that the granite was pumice, and that, when I tripped, it was because of small earthquakes and not because I was wearing flip-flops with no tread). We spent about two and a half hours around Pompeii and left exhausted and covered in dirt (volcanic ash), and greeted the Circumvesuviana with less than excitement. The ride to Herculaneum was not long, but the walk to the site – from the train station in Ercolano to the Scavia, or excavation – took us about 20 minutes****. We thought we were helplessly lost and found that the people of Ercolano are rather unfriendly, but eventually we stumbled upon the Scavia and were let in by a bored-looking guard who barely even glanced at our tickets. I found myself wishing we had not paid.
At first, Herculaneum seemed much less exciting than Pompeii, which surprised me since everyone had told me it was the better of the two sites. Herculaneum is significantly smaller to begin with, and only a small portion of the ancient ruins have actually been excavated, so in contrast to Pompeii’s sprawl we could see all of Herculaneum when we entered and looked down. The exciting thing about Herculaneum, though, is actually that rich people lived there. Whereas all the houses in Pompeii look like they’re built for people smaller than me, the ones in Herculaneum actually seem livable. As I said to MR, it was easier to relate to Herculaneum; though Pompeii was obviously fascinating, in Herculaneum I found myself considering the atrocities of Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 A.D. and picturing the citizens who lived inside the walls.
Eventually we trudged back to the Circumvesuviana station and headed to the Naples train station, where we got our bags and boarded a train to Roma Termini. We then successfully caught the next Leonardo da Vinci train to Fiumicino, the airport, from whence we snagged a taxi (though unfortunately we ended up paying more than we said we would because we were too exhausted to haggle properly) and ended up, as this post began, at the front doors of the Marriott Courtyard*****.
And so my Italian adventure during the summer of 2009 reaches to an end. Exciting travel – for my travel days are usually the most exciting – to come tomorrow; stay tuned for my final hours from the Italian (no longer Tuscan, as I am in Rome) broadband!
*This came as even more of a surprise since MR and I were actually somewhat forced into McDonald’s for supper. Honestly, the Naples train station has a McDonald’s and a little place that sells baked breakfast breads. I should note that the hamburger I consumed was not much like the ones that the McDonalds’ in the US serve; in place of ketchup and mustard (which were 20 Euro cents extra, and I was not about to shell out $4.00 for a pack of ketchup) was some very strange sauce with peppers in it. Still, it was a hamburger.
**As I am now sitting in a Marriott, you can be relatively well assured that this did not, in fact, happen. The mountain stayed quite quiet. I ended up a little disappointed in the end by its silence. I really thought there was going to be some sort of action – hailing pumice stones at the very least – but there was nothing.
***I’m currently preparing sacrifices in the form of Britney Spears and the entire band of Nine Inch Nails to the music gods just in case they exist, because I know I’m not cut out to be a DJ. I promise, I wasn’t trying to be a DJ. I just thought it was a nice lyrical connection.
****We later discovered that this was because we were given directions on how to drive there, rather than on how to walk there. Really, the walk was only about 8 minutes. It was nice, on the way back, to cut it short a little.
*****Quick shout-out here to MR’s dad, who made the Marriott possible. IT IS AWESOME. Thank you, Mr. R.
Wednesday, June 17, 2009
NHWAAAAAH NHWEEE NHWAAAAAH
Today MR and I headed to Capri (pronounced CAH-pri, which surprised me - I had been pronouncing it like the silly-looking pants), which we had expected to be somewhat like Positano but was in fact drastically different. We wore our swimsuits, which was wildly unneccessary for most of the day, as we did not even go to a beach and spent almost all our time on boats or climbing up what one guidebook listed as 900 stairs (we think it was probably fewer than that, because a lot of the trail was just uphill without any steps).
The swimsuits DID come in handy when we were rowed into the Blue Grotto*. The Blue Grotto was an experience for several reasons. Perhaps the most interesting part of the adventure was the very beginning, as we waited to climb down from the big boat that was traveling around the island into teensy little rowboats that were apparently** going to take us into the Blue Grotto. Many of the women in Italy are relatively slim; this stereotype apparently does not hold true for tourists, Italian or American or other-an, to Capri, and MR and I were surrounded by creatures that can only be aptly described as whales***. As I nervously surveyed these ocean-dwellers, trying to calculate which two would be in a boat with MR and me, two little New York girls asked if the four of us could ride together. We quickly agreed. I guess the New Yorkers had been eyeing our company, too.
The New Yorkers were quite a bit of fun. They had just finished college (I didn't ask which one) and their parents gave them a trip to Italy for graduation, which they seemed to be enjoying immensely. The four of us sat on the floor of our rowboat, which lamentably was not commanded by one of the cute younger rowers, and took pictures of each other while we waited in line to enter the Blue Grotto. The Grotto itself had still not appeared, but I took this in stride (silly attitude) and figured we would row around a corner and see the cave entrance.
We did not.
Our rower instead pulled us right up against the cliff, where there was a tiny little hole, and grabbed on to a line. When the wave finished a big swell, he pushed the boat down in the water enough for us to just squeak through the opening. I was extremely terrified that we were going to be crushed and then drown, but somehow (probably because our dude knew what he was doing) we survived and entered the Blue Grotto.
It was awesome. I can't really describe it, except to say that it felt like I was on top of a light blue mirror in the dark, which doesn't sound that cool, but if you're ever anywhere close to Capri you should do it. Also, if you're in a boat with a rower who will let you swim for less than 5 Euro each (we were not, which did not deter the New Yorkers), SWIM. Supercool.
Anyway, the rest of the day was spent, as I said, hiking and finishing the boat tour. MR and I spent a good portion of the afternoon reading on the terrace of a cafe at the waterfront, where we ordered cones of gelato and got gelato in a dish with cones beside it (very strange, since I know for a fact that a cone of gelato in Italy is a cone with gelato in it). At long last we took the ferry back to Sorrento and had a filling but unimpressive supper - nothing to write home (or to Justin) about. Now we are preparing for tomorrow - Pompeii and Herculaneum! - MR by reading guide books and myself, as usual, by reading a novel on the subject. She is probably getting more USEFUL information out of her books, but I am definitely more interested in Pompeii and the fictional characters who may or may not escape (I still have about 100 pages left).
One quick note about yesterday before I leave the internet cafe: on the SITA bus ride home - the one described, as I lounged on the beach, as terrifying - MR and I had to stand as there was no longer room to sit. Standing for an hour clutching your beach posessions on an Italian bus while it weaves precariously through the mountains = very, very, very scary. I built a lot of character.
Ciao for now - US on Friday!
*Part of our boat tour around the island, which, if you ever go to Capri, you should definitely do.
**I should note that at this point neither MR nor myself had actually seen the entrance to the Blue Grotto, despite having searched for it among the cliffs leading down to the water. This was mildly disconcerting to me, but I decided to roll with it, having attempted to adopt the motto: "It's Italy."
***Some of them even made whale noises and looked like they yearned for the ocean and for krill. I'm not being cruel, just honest. MR heard the whale sounds, too. We even took pictures of the biggest whale, which looked particularly beached. Photos will be uploaded soon, don't worry. NHWAAAAAH NHWEEE NHWAAAAAH (that's what whales sound like).
The swimsuits DID come in handy when we were rowed into the Blue Grotto*. The Blue Grotto was an experience for several reasons. Perhaps the most interesting part of the adventure was the very beginning, as we waited to climb down from the big boat that was traveling around the island into teensy little rowboats that were apparently** going to take us into the Blue Grotto. Many of the women in Italy are relatively slim; this stereotype apparently does not hold true for tourists, Italian or American or other-an, to Capri, and MR and I were surrounded by creatures that can only be aptly described as whales***. As I nervously surveyed these ocean-dwellers, trying to calculate which two would be in a boat with MR and me, two little New York girls asked if the four of us could ride together. We quickly agreed. I guess the New Yorkers had been eyeing our company, too.
The New Yorkers were quite a bit of fun. They had just finished college (I didn't ask which one) and their parents gave them a trip to Italy for graduation, which they seemed to be enjoying immensely. The four of us sat on the floor of our rowboat, which lamentably was not commanded by one of the cute younger rowers, and took pictures of each other while we waited in line to enter the Blue Grotto. The Grotto itself had still not appeared, but I took this in stride (silly attitude) and figured we would row around a corner and see the cave entrance.
We did not.
Our rower instead pulled us right up against the cliff, where there was a tiny little hole, and grabbed on to a line. When the wave finished a big swell, he pushed the boat down in the water enough for us to just squeak through the opening. I was extremely terrified that we were going to be crushed and then drown, but somehow (probably because our dude knew what he was doing) we survived and entered the Blue Grotto.
It was awesome. I can't really describe it, except to say that it felt like I was on top of a light blue mirror in the dark, which doesn't sound that cool, but if you're ever anywhere close to Capri you should do it. Also, if you're in a boat with a rower who will let you swim for less than 5 Euro each (we were not, which did not deter the New Yorkers), SWIM. Supercool.
Anyway, the rest of the day was spent, as I said, hiking and finishing the boat tour. MR and I spent a good portion of the afternoon reading on the terrace of a cafe at the waterfront, where we ordered cones of gelato and got gelato in a dish with cones beside it (very strange, since I know for a fact that a cone of gelato in Italy is a cone with gelato in it). At long last we took the ferry back to Sorrento and had a filling but unimpressive supper - nothing to write home (or to Justin) about. Now we are preparing for tomorrow - Pompeii and Herculaneum! - MR by reading guide books and myself, as usual, by reading a novel on the subject. She is probably getting more USEFUL information out of her books, but I am definitely more interested in Pompeii and the fictional characters who may or may not escape (I still have about 100 pages left).
One quick note about yesterday before I leave the internet cafe: on the SITA bus ride home - the one described, as I lounged on the beach, as terrifying - MR and I had to stand as there was no longer room to sit. Standing for an hour clutching your beach posessions on an Italian bus while it weaves precariously through the mountains = very, very, very scary. I built a lot of character.
Ciao for now - US on Friday!
*Part of our boat tour around the island, which, if you ever go to Capri, you should definitely do.
**I should note that at this point neither MR nor myself had actually seen the entrance to the Blue Grotto, despite having searched for it among the cliffs leading down to the water. This was mildly disconcerting to me, but I decided to roll with it, having attempted to adopt the motto: "It's Italy."
***Some of them even made whale noises and looked like they yearned for the ocean and for krill. I'm not being cruel, just honest. MR heard the whale sounds, too. We even took pictures of the biggest whale, which looked particularly beached. Photos will be uploaded soon, don't worry. NHWAAAAAH NHWEEE NHWAAAAAH (that's what whales sound like).
Tuesday, June 16, 2009
Wish You Were Beautiful
Jimmy Buffett sings that "Salt air, it ain't thin / It can stick right to your skin / And make you feel fine". Right now I am lying "beside the sea there", and he's correct about the salt air. He should have maybe extended it to salt water, though - I'm pretty sure I'm never going to get it out of my hair. MR and I have spent quite a bit of time in the swimming area off of Positano today and could probably fill a salt shaker with the salt that's stuck to our hair and skin. I can feel my cuts healing already.
A la mode of the other beachgoers, MR and I hung our cover-ups from the tops of our beach chairs and can look up to watch them wave around in wind that seems never to reach us. It is at least several million degrees* down here on almost-ground level** and I am watching my dress in envy.
Meanwhile I'm trying to keep from watching the fat old men in Speedos. Why would they think that Speedos are the way to go? Seriously, did someone play a cruel joke on them or are they playing a cruel joke on us? And why are all the children at this beach naked? I feel like Coppertone and Richard Simmons decided to have photoshoots at the same location and forgot to coordinate (Simmons' would be the "before" shoot, obviously).
It is nice to have a relaxing day at the beach after yesterday's 10 hours of travel, during which MR and I hauled around all our clothes etc for the month in Italy as well as the souvenirs (okay, wine) we're taking home. Though we had a relatively uneventful trip, we were both exhausted by the time we reached the Hotel del Corso and barely managed to reach a nearby restaurant - the Don Vincenzo - for supper before falling asleep. When we return to Sorrento this evening we plan to explore a little more, and this evening we will sit out on the terrace of our hotel with a bottle of wine. I've been looking for a tin cup for a chalice and for honeysuckle, but neither seem to be native to Italy, so I will resort to living in the spirit of Jimmy Buffett if not in the actual style.
I feel I should reflect on our ride here - we took the SITA bus, which was more terrifying than the time I rode with my family and the Clarksons and George Washington*** through the mountains of Jamaica (probably because I am now old enough to understand the difference between fear and fun). However, though today is a restful day, it does not seem to be a very reflective one for me - concerning the ride or life or even food (sorry, Justin). Perhaps it is because I am tired from all the travel or finding it difficult to pontificate on my teensy BlackBerry keyboard or just in a vapid mood; whatever the reason, I cannot seem to muster up the will to do much more than make sure all of my vampire-white skin stays under the umbrella and lift my finger to switxh between country, oldies, and Jimmy Buffett on my IPod****. To be fair, I have done two productive things today: swimming and beating off the man selling miniature beach chairs. I mean, seriously, I know I'm short, but I really don't want to spend my gelato money on miniature beach chairs. Even if I were really really rich I wouldn't want to buy miniature beach chairs. It's like inviting mice to drink beer and build bonfires on your mantel.
In conclusion, I would like to note that "The skies are too clear / Life's too easy today". I haven't had any beer (surprise!) and haven't found any daquiries, but if I had I'd bet they'd respectively be too cold and too fruitiful. After all, no matter how bubbly the Bellinis or how cold the gelato, "There's no place like home when you're this far away".
*Farenheight, not Celsius
**Hence the amount of time spent on the salt water
***Our driver, who liked to say his name to Americans a lot
****The IPink has been appropriately left at the hotel.
A la mode of the other beachgoers, MR and I hung our cover-ups from the tops of our beach chairs and can look up to watch them wave around in wind that seems never to reach us. It is at least several million degrees* down here on almost-ground level** and I am watching my dress in envy.
Meanwhile I'm trying to keep from watching the fat old men in Speedos. Why would they think that Speedos are the way to go? Seriously, did someone play a cruel joke on them or are they playing a cruel joke on us? And why are all the children at this beach naked? I feel like Coppertone and Richard Simmons decided to have photoshoots at the same location and forgot to coordinate (Simmons' would be the "before" shoot, obviously).
It is nice to have a relaxing day at the beach after yesterday's 10 hours of travel, during which MR and I hauled around all our clothes etc for the month in Italy as well as the souvenirs (okay, wine) we're taking home. Though we had a relatively uneventful trip, we were both exhausted by the time we reached the Hotel del Corso and barely managed to reach a nearby restaurant - the Don Vincenzo - for supper before falling asleep. When we return to Sorrento this evening we plan to explore a little more, and this evening we will sit out on the terrace of our hotel with a bottle of wine. I've been looking for a tin cup for a chalice and for honeysuckle, but neither seem to be native to Italy, so I will resort to living in the spirit of Jimmy Buffett if not in the actual style.
I feel I should reflect on our ride here - we took the SITA bus, which was more terrifying than the time I rode with my family and the Clarksons and George Washington*** through the mountains of Jamaica (probably because I am now old enough to understand the difference between fear and fun). However, though today is a restful day, it does not seem to be a very reflective one for me - concerning the ride or life or even food (sorry, Justin). Perhaps it is because I am tired from all the travel or finding it difficult to pontificate on my teensy BlackBerry keyboard or just in a vapid mood; whatever the reason, I cannot seem to muster up the will to do much more than make sure all of my vampire-white skin stays under the umbrella and lift my finger to switxh between country, oldies, and Jimmy Buffett on my IPod****. To be fair, I have done two productive things today: swimming and beating off the man selling miniature beach chairs. I mean, seriously, I know I'm short, but I really don't want to spend my gelato money on miniature beach chairs. Even if I were really really rich I wouldn't want to buy miniature beach chairs. It's like inviting mice to drink beer and build bonfires on your mantel.
In conclusion, I would like to note that "The skies are too clear / Life's too easy today". I haven't had any beer (surprise!) and haven't found any daquiries, but if I had I'd bet they'd respectively be too cold and too fruitiful. After all, no matter how bubbly the Bellinis or how cold the gelato, "There's no place like home when you're this far away".
*Farenheight, not Celsius
**Hence the amount of time spent on the salt water
***Our driver, who liked to say his name to Americans a lot
****The IPink has been appropriately left at the hotel.
Monday, June 15, 2009
Sorrento and Beyond
MR and I just arrived in Napoli after quite a long train ride. We had a six-person compartment with an Italian couple who spoke no English, but somehow we figured out how to actually carry on a conversation with them. Tres interesante. Also on the train I almost smacked a gypsy girl who got into an argument with me about giving her money. She kept pointing to my wallet and saying, "si!" while I growled, "NO."
We stopped in the McDonald's at Napoli Centrale to get our bearings and figure out whether we would be staying in a Marriott here in Naples or Capri or heading on to Sorrento as planed. Sorrento it is, and now we're checking the Circumvesuviana train schedule to make sure we can get to the Hotel del Corso. Wish us luck!!
Ciao for now.
We stopped in the McDonald's at Napoli Centrale to get our bearings and figure out whether we would be staying in a Marriott here in Naples or Capri or heading on to Sorrento as planed. Sorrento it is, and now we're checking the Circumvesuviana train schedule to make sure we can get to the Hotel del Corso. Wish us luck!!
Ciao for now.
Sunday, June 14, 2009
La Storia?
Spotted: yours truly trying to rewrite history a la DI. DI himself has not been heard from since he headed to a party at the Brit villa (for which he had to dress up as GI Joe). Taken? We hope not. LCLC
Food from Last Night
Dear Justin*,
Last night MR and I walked the streets of Venice for over an hour searching for a little restaurant on a canal. Apparently snack bars and pizza places have a monopoly on the canal spots, though, because we could not find a restaurant by the water. Eventually we just began looking for any old restaurant where we could just sit outside, but it turned out that without a reservation we weren't going to be able to get in. At long last we returned to San Marco (more than an hour later after we'd left that area) and inquired at the Ristorante do Leoni, which is set back a ways from the water but still technically on the Grand Canal. I have to say, if every time I wandered aimlessly for an hour I ended up at a place like the do Leoni, I would wander aimlessly a whole lot more.
The waiters found a table for us outside immediately and refused to allow us to sit on our own; instead, they insisted upon pulling out our chairs for us and making sure we were pushed in sufficiently. MR introduced me to Belinis, which are AWESOME, and then I ordered an insalata mista and the Taglioni alla Astice** and MR got her typical spaghetti bianca. We were pleasantly surprised to receive complimentary shrimp cocktails and wonderful bread before the meal, and our pastas were extremely good (though mine came with a lobster shell on top of it, which I did not particularly appreciate). We declined to order dessert since we had plans to spend the rest of the evening in front of a group of musicians in San Marco, but were brought tiny complimentary cookies anyway. The wine we ordered was also left off the bill.
As we walked away, we discussed the fact that we had ended up with more free food than ordered food. At first we named the restaurant ridiculous, after further reflection, though, we realized that the service and little free foods had hooked us and that we would not be able to resist returning to the Ristorante do Leoni during subsequent visits to Venice - and that we would recommend it to everyone we knew (by the way, if you're ever in Venice, go to the Ristorante do Leoni). Overall, we gave them four thumbs up.
Dessert was chocolate cake and Spritzes*** in San Marco while we listened to the same group of musicians we'd picked out as the best the night before. MR got some videos of them playing, so look for that when we finally load everything on our computers.
This morning we found the Jewish Ghetto (even with directions we had trouble - it's REALLY tucked away) and have been strolling through the streets just looking around at everything. There are tourists EVERYWHERE. I ran through San Marco and along the end of the Grand Canal some this morning and thought I was playing flag football or something I had to dodge so many people. I almost purposefully took out some of the ones holding sunbrellas**** just because they were so annoying, but tried to be all zen and yoga-esque and ran around them in the end.
Tonight we head back to the Villa to spend the night and pack up all our things before the Amalfi Coast. Hopefully the train will be more comfortable than it was on Friday. Cross your fingers for me :) -
*I was really only going to do one "Dear Justin", but after last night's supper experience some requests came in that I do another. I guess in making fun of DI I discovered that documenting food is actually a good idea...
**Pasta with lobster
***Apparently THE cocktail of Venice. We couldn't figure out what was in them, but they were slightly bitter and had slices of orange as well as huge green olives hanging out on a stick in the drink. Yummy.
****Umbrellas that certain ethnic groups of people use to shade themselves from the sun
Last night MR and I walked the streets of Venice for over an hour searching for a little restaurant on a canal. Apparently snack bars and pizza places have a monopoly on the canal spots, though, because we could not find a restaurant by the water. Eventually we just began looking for any old restaurant where we could just sit outside, but it turned out that without a reservation we weren't going to be able to get in. At long last we returned to San Marco (more than an hour later after we'd left that area) and inquired at the Ristorante do Leoni, which is set back a ways from the water but still technically on the Grand Canal. I have to say, if every time I wandered aimlessly for an hour I ended up at a place like the do Leoni, I would wander aimlessly a whole lot more.
The waiters found a table for us outside immediately and refused to allow us to sit on our own; instead, they insisted upon pulling out our chairs for us and making sure we were pushed in sufficiently. MR introduced me to Belinis, which are AWESOME, and then I ordered an insalata mista and the Taglioni alla Astice** and MR got her typical spaghetti bianca. We were pleasantly surprised to receive complimentary shrimp cocktails and wonderful bread before the meal, and our pastas were extremely good (though mine came with a lobster shell on top of it, which I did not particularly appreciate). We declined to order dessert since we had plans to spend the rest of the evening in front of a group of musicians in San Marco, but were brought tiny complimentary cookies anyway. The wine we ordered was also left off the bill.
As we walked away, we discussed the fact that we had ended up with more free food than ordered food. At first we named the restaurant ridiculous, after further reflection, though, we realized that the service and little free foods had hooked us and that we would not be able to resist returning to the Ristorante do Leoni during subsequent visits to Venice - and that we would recommend it to everyone we knew (by the way, if you're ever in Venice, go to the Ristorante do Leoni). Overall, we gave them four thumbs up.
Dessert was chocolate cake and Spritzes*** in San Marco while we listened to the same group of musicians we'd picked out as the best the night before. MR got some videos of them playing, so look for that when we finally load everything on our computers.
This morning we found the Jewish Ghetto (even with directions we had trouble - it's REALLY tucked away) and have been strolling through the streets just looking around at everything. There are tourists EVERYWHERE. I ran through San Marco and along the end of the Grand Canal some this morning and thought I was playing flag football or something I had to dodge so many people. I almost purposefully took out some of the ones holding sunbrellas**** just because they were so annoying, but tried to be all zen and yoga-esque and ran around them in the end.
Tonight we head back to the Villa to spend the night and pack up all our things before the Amalfi Coast. Hopefully the train will be more comfortable than it was on Friday. Cross your fingers for me :) -
*I was really only going to do one "Dear Justin", but after last night's supper experience some requests came in that I do another. I guess in making fun of DI I discovered that documenting food is actually a good idea...
**Pasta with lobster
***Apparently THE cocktail of Venice. We couldn't figure out what was in them, but they were slightly bitter and had slices of orange as well as huge green olives hanging out on a stick in the drink. Yummy.
****Umbrellas that certain ethnic groups of people use to shade themselves from the sun
Saturday, June 13, 2009
Ahhhh, Venice!
MR and I arrived in Venice yesterday evening to find that the hotel we had booked was absolutely wonderful. The only downside is that the room we're sharing is only large enough for the two twin beds inside it. However, we aren't exactly spending our time in the room, so it has worked out well so far.
Last night we ate at the Taverno San Travaso, which must be the best and best-hidden restaurant in Venice. MR had been there on previous visits and miraculously led us straight to it - we didn't even get lost, though I admit to thinking MR had no clue what she was doing when she led me to the entrance. The restaurant is through a secret terrace-garden and the streets around it were deserted. It turned out I should have trusted her, though, because the food was amazing (Re: my Dear Justin* of last night).
After supper we wandered around the Piazza San Marco, where three groups of musicians were set up with grand pianos, violins, and various other instruments (one had an accordion!!). The piazza is huge, and in front of each of the stands with musicians playing (there were also lots of empty stands with no one set up) were tables and chairs where people sat having cappuccinos or wine (which we have resolved to do tonight after a lighter supper - last night we were too full to consider ANYTHING). We heard a fair amount of Mozart (some of which was played very well and some of which was butchered) as well as some Frank Sinatra. All in all, I decided that Venice was pretty awesome.
My opinion was fortified today. MR and I strolled through the city looking at lots of glass and mask shops; we ventured to the Rialto but decided it was too crazy to spend much time near (although right now we're back near the Rialto at an internet cafe called "Venetian N@vigator 2") and then took a semi-accidental tour of the city by boat. The plan was to take the boat up from one end of the canal to the other, but MR and I got on the wrong boat and ended up seeing the city from another angle entirely before deciding just to travel back down the canal to where we had started. Our idea was to head to the Jewish ghetto after our boat tour, but since it took so much longer we decided to go to the ghetto tomorrow - we figured things were probably more likely to be open on the non-Jewish Sabbath anyway. Thanks to SB and DI for their help with directions...I promise we'll actually use them tomorrow :/.
Ciao for now -
*By the way: Dear Justin, breakfast (free from the hotel) this morning was amazing! It was a huge buffet with eggs and sausage and all kinds of breads and fruit and cereal and juices. We got to sit outside on the hotel's terrace, which overlooks a canal. Food is awesome!
Last night we ate at the Taverno San Travaso, which must be the best and best-hidden restaurant in Venice. MR had been there on previous visits and miraculously led us straight to it - we didn't even get lost, though I admit to thinking MR had no clue what she was doing when she led me to the entrance. The restaurant is through a secret terrace-garden and the streets around it were deserted. It turned out I should have trusted her, though, because the food was amazing (Re: my Dear Justin* of last night).
After supper we wandered around the Piazza San Marco, where three groups of musicians were set up with grand pianos, violins, and various other instruments (one had an accordion!!). The piazza is huge, and in front of each of the stands with musicians playing (there were also lots of empty stands with no one set up) were tables and chairs where people sat having cappuccinos or wine (which we have resolved to do tonight after a lighter supper - last night we were too full to consider ANYTHING). We heard a fair amount of Mozart (some of which was played very well and some of which was butchered) as well as some Frank Sinatra. All in all, I decided that Venice was pretty awesome.
My opinion was fortified today. MR and I strolled through the city looking at lots of glass and mask shops; we ventured to the Rialto but decided it was too crazy to spend much time near (although right now we're back near the Rialto at an internet cafe called "Venetian N@vigator 2") and then took a semi-accidental tour of the city by boat. The plan was to take the boat up from one end of the canal to the other, but MR and I got on the wrong boat and ended up seeing the city from another angle entirely before deciding just to travel back down the canal to where we had started. Our idea was to head to the Jewish ghetto after our boat tour, but since it took so much longer we decided to go to the ghetto tomorrow - we figured things were probably more likely to be open on the non-Jewish Sabbath anyway. Thanks to SB and DI for their help with directions...I promise we'll actually use them tomorrow :/.
Ciao for now -
*By the way: Dear Justin, breakfast (free from the hotel) this morning was amazing! It was a huge buffet with eggs and sausage and all kinds of breads and fruit and cereal and juices. We got to sit outside on the hotel's terrace, which overlooks a canal. Food is awesome!
Boating
Spotted: Francesco* in Venice while MR and yours truly were riding the vaparetto. Stay tuned for pictures. LCLC
*Okay, it was a boat named Francesco.
*Okay, it was a boat named Francesco.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Covert chiacchiera
Spotted: OK doing recon while yours truly was in Venice. Updates include GF underwhelmed by food offerings of Fiesole (can't get pizza at 4.15?!) apart from excellent nutella gelato (as Justin knows). Also spotted: DI going out with brit drunkards (no update on the paper), CD & ABo out in Florence with TF and her sisters, KM playing on computer and OK herself wallowing in having her Own Room, wearing clay mask and playing music (clay mask is practice for Botox). Meanwhile, MR and yours truly have not been spotted - out of town, out of sight - enjoying the robes of the Hotel Bonvecchiati.
All parties are wondering: how well will the covert gossip continue?
You know you love reading it - LCLC
All parties are wondering: how well will the covert gossip continue?
You know you love reading it - LCLC
A Page from a Boy-Diary
Dear Justin,
Today I had a roll with honey for breakfast like usual, but I didn't have lunch until nearly 4pm because I was in San Lorenzo's Market in Florence. I had to make my train to Venice, so I didn't even have time to get a REAL lunch - just a sandwich from Chef Express!! ABe had the same kind but I don't know how he liked his because he had to go to Rome.
MR and I ate supper at a restaurant called Taverna San Trovaso in Venice. I had the insalata mista to start. Actually, I had a roll first, but I didn't order that, it just came with the table. Then I had Gnocchi 4 Fromaggi, which was really big and fluffy and the best gnocchi I've ever had, and MR had some spicy spaghetti that she liked quite a bit. THEN we split a filet, which was basically the first time we've had red meat in three weeks, and we both agreed that it was amazing even though we couldn't finish it. After supper we got gelato in the Piazza San Marco where musicians played some pretty awesome music - you would have loved it, Justin - but we decided that the gelato in Fiesole is still better.
Can't wait to see what tomorrow holds dietarily!
Today I had a roll with honey for breakfast like usual, but I didn't have lunch until nearly 4pm because I was in San Lorenzo's Market in Florence. I had to make my train to Venice, so I didn't even have time to get a REAL lunch - just a sandwich from Chef Express!! ABe had the same kind but I don't know how he liked his because he had to go to Rome.
MR and I ate supper at a restaurant called Taverna San Trovaso in Venice. I had the insalata mista to start. Actually, I had a roll first, but I didn't order that, it just came with the table. Then I had Gnocchi 4 Fromaggi, which was really big and fluffy and the best gnocchi I've ever had, and MR had some spicy spaghetti that she liked quite a bit. THEN we split a filet, which was basically the first time we've had red meat in three weeks, and we both agreed that it was amazing even though we couldn't finish it. After supper we got gelato in the Piazza San Marco where musicians played some pretty awesome music - you would have loved it, Justin - but we decided that the gelato in Fiesole is still better.
Can't wait to see what tomorrow holds dietarily!
Switch from Sails to Steam
Last night was the final night we all spent at the Villa. It may not be the end of an era, but it's certainly the end of a great three weeks, and while I didn't always get along with everyone, we had a good group and at least kept each other entertained (Chiacchiera, anyone?).
MR, ABo, ABe, PK, DI, CD, and I went up to J. J. Hill's late - after some of us had finished first drafts of our papers and others (DI) had not even started. We saw Francesco, who asked repeatedly after RK, and had a drink and fries while generally making fun of DI for whatever he did or said. Luckily he's a good sport and a sweetheart - otherwise I think we would have left him alone*.
This morning most of us slept in, then spent a few hours working on our papers. The printer broke, so we resorted to emailing our papers to CJ and CL, and I also managed to lose my key** and break my IPink***. Luckily, I found my key in the dryer - it was dirty and wanted to hang with my laundry - and ABo fixed my IPink. Meanwhile, BMo, KM, and RK took pictures and made video tours of the Villa, and DI watched basketball and pretended to begin his paper. The maids let us be lazy - they left breakfast out until 10:30, which is unprecedented. I was shocked and awed (in the best way possible) to return from my run**** to find I could still have a roll with honey. The maids also waited until late morning to make our beds and clean our rooms. Have I mentioned that daily maid service is really nice?
MR and I are currently on the train to Venice, where we'll spend the weekend before heading to the Amalfi Coast. We'll be back at the Villa to spend Sunday night and have a party with OK, ABo, and DI (if we can convince him to come back up to Fiesole). Monday we'll hop on a 5-hour train to Sorrento, where we'll stay for 3 nights while exploring the Amalfi Coast (MR has an awesome itinerary laid out for us, so I'm pretty excited).
Now that business is out of the way, I should mention that I've been thinking a lot about oceans recently. Maybe it's because CJ loves teaching about the ocean, or because I've been writing about the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, or because Jimmy Buffett is currently playing on my IPod*****. Aren't oceans interesting, though? I can't imagine such huge expanses of seeing NOTHING but the same everywhere - waves, I mean, on the ocean; I hear (okay, read) that you can sail for days in the Pacific just seeing waves and nothing else. There's no sign that you're even moving absent the wind in your hair. Is that thrilling or terrifying or just boring? I can't decide. Thinking of it makes me want to go out and try it. I think it must be one of those things you either love or hate. I would miss land, I'm sure - but it seems that every time you do something new and exciting there's something to miss, and I don't agree with living by the Aerosmith philosophy ("I don't want to miss a thing", anyone? Sidenote: how creepy was it that in "Armaggedon" Steven Tyler's daughter had a sex scene to that song? The answer is, "very").
It's a Catch-22, kind of, because to miss things you have to create experiences with people and places to miss on the next experience.
I think I would like to see the Great Pacific Garbage Patch for myself. I want to go through the Horse Lattitudes. I learned the other day that they got their name because ships would hit a wall of no wind there and throw their horses off the side to conserve water. Freaky for sure. I wouldn't want to hit doldrums in the middle of a giant horse graveyard. Luckily, ships have switche from sail to steam (Jimmy Buffett says so), and if my adventure to and through the Great Pacific Garbage Patch ever actually happens I won't have to rely on the wind.
Anyway, I'm off now to try and focus back on canals and Venice so I don't concentrate on oceans all weekend. Ciao -
*Maybe. His boy-diary, Justin, is pretty easy to make fun of. None of us managed to read it, but he says it has complete descriptions of all his meals sÍnce January 2nd. He likes to remember what he eats, I guess.
**Really, on the last day.
***Ít's an IPod, but pink. It's also used exclusively for evercising, particularly running.
****Cue "Chariots of Fire", please
*****Markedly different from the IPink, especially since I am definitely not running right now.
MR, ABo, ABe, PK, DI, CD, and I went up to J. J. Hill's late - after some of us had finished first drafts of our papers and others (DI) had not even started. We saw Francesco, who asked repeatedly after RK, and had a drink and fries while generally making fun of DI for whatever he did or said. Luckily he's a good sport and a sweetheart - otherwise I think we would have left him alone*.
This morning most of us slept in, then spent a few hours working on our papers. The printer broke, so we resorted to emailing our papers to CJ and CL, and I also managed to lose my key** and break my IPink***. Luckily, I found my key in the dryer - it was dirty and wanted to hang with my laundry - and ABo fixed my IPink. Meanwhile, BMo, KM, and RK took pictures and made video tours of the Villa, and DI watched basketball and pretended to begin his paper. The maids let us be lazy - they left breakfast out until 10:30, which is unprecedented. I was shocked and awed (in the best way possible) to return from my run**** to find I could still have a roll with honey. The maids also waited until late morning to make our beds and clean our rooms. Have I mentioned that daily maid service is really nice?
MR and I are currently on the train to Venice, where we'll spend the weekend before heading to the Amalfi Coast. We'll be back at the Villa to spend Sunday night and have a party with OK, ABo, and DI (if we can convince him to come back up to Fiesole). Monday we'll hop on a 5-hour train to Sorrento, where we'll stay for 3 nights while exploring the Amalfi Coast (MR has an awesome itinerary laid out for us, so I'm pretty excited).
Now that business is out of the way, I should mention that I've been thinking a lot about oceans recently. Maybe it's because CJ loves teaching about the ocean, or because I've been writing about the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, or because Jimmy Buffett is currently playing on my IPod*****. Aren't oceans interesting, though? I can't imagine such huge expanses of seeing NOTHING but the same everywhere - waves, I mean, on the ocean; I hear (okay, read) that you can sail for days in the Pacific just seeing waves and nothing else. There's no sign that you're even moving absent the wind in your hair. Is that thrilling or terrifying or just boring? I can't decide. Thinking of it makes me want to go out and try it. I think it must be one of those things you either love or hate. I would miss land, I'm sure - but it seems that every time you do something new and exciting there's something to miss, and I don't agree with living by the Aerosmith philosophy ("I don't want to miss a thing", anyone? Sidenote: how creepy was it that in "Armaggedon" Steven Tyler's daughter had a sex scene to that song? The answer is, "very").
It's a Catch-22, kind of, because to miss things you have to create experiences with people and places to miss on the next experience.
I think I would like to see the Great Pacific Garbage Patch for myself. I want to go through the Horse Lattitudes. I learned the other day that they got their name because ships would hit a wall of no wind there and throw their horses off the side to conserve water. Freaky for sure. I wouldn't want to hit doldrums in the middle of a giant horse graveyard. Luckily, ships have switche from sail to steam (Jimmy Buffett says so), and if my adventure to and through the Great Pacific Garbage Patch ever actually happens I won't have to rely on the wind.
Anyway, I'm off now to try and focus back on canals and Venice so I don't concentrate on oceans all weekend. Ciao -
*Maybe. His boy-diary, Justin, is pretty easy to make fun of. None of us managed to read it, but he says it has complete descriptions of all his meals sÍnce January 2nd. He likes to remember what he eats, I guess.
**Really, on the last day.
***Ít's an IPod, but pink. It's also used exclusively for evercising, particularly running.
****Cue "Chariots of Fire", please
*****Markedly different from the IPink, especially since I am definitely not running right now.
Getting Away?
Spotted: RK in the train station several hours after leaving the Villa. ABe spotted by RK at Chef Express. Meanwhile, DI finished a first draft of his paper and wrote a "Dear Justin".
MR and yours truly still on the train to Venice - sitting beside a dumb biddie and her boyfriend Bo.
Ah, (tren)Italia! LCLC
MR and yours truly still on the train to Venice - sitting beside a dumb biddie and her boyfriend Bo.
Ah, (tren)Italia! LCLC
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