Friday, June 19, 2009

Gossip's Demise

Spotted: yours truly leaving Italy. Excited for the Villa Reunion Party tomorrow night in DC...

Don't Want to Land in...

It’s funny, but even when I think I’m so acclimated to a culture – not part of it, mind you, just USED to it a little – I observe something that shocks me back into remembering that I am not home. Tonight MR and I were dragging ourselves and our belongings through the front door of the Marriott Courtyard at Fiumicino, the Rome airport, and I swear I could have been anywhere from mid-Florida to upstate New York to Salt Lake City – that’s how used to the Marriott I am – but suddenly I found a sign that I was not back in the Great United States yet*. Outside of the big front door sat two flight attendants having an in-depth discussion that almost certainly covered the philosophy of gossip; none of this is shocking, I know, but here comes my reminder: they were drinking beers.

I have never seen a flight attendant in the US sit outside of a Marriott by a main road and drink beer. I’ve actually never seen a flight attendant in the US drink beer, but I assume they at least have the capacity to do so, and the point here is not the beer so much as the alcoholic content of the beer – I think you begin to understand why I did a bit of a double-take.

Anyway, on to more solid and historic (if not more exciting) ramblings: today was the day of the long-awaited Pompeii/Herculaneum trip. MR and I started the day off right by sleeping in for half an hour, and then managed to take about four hours to drop our bags off at the train station in Naples and then get back to Pompeii. To be fair, the Circumvesuviana is really rather slow, and despite leaving the Hotel del Corso in Sorrento a little after 9am we did not even arrive at the train station in Napoli until 11:15. Then we went through finding the baggage check, checking the baggage, trying to check MR in for her flight tomorrow, giving up on that, getting back to the Circumvesuviana, having to wait for the 12:11 train, and then riding that train for about 40 minutes before arriving in Pompeii. Really, they should make the Circumvesuviana go just a teensy bit faster. In a direct contrast to MR and me, it’s rather slow.

Pompeii was dry, dusty, sunny, and hot. After having finished my novel and read about half of a historical treatise on the city in the space of about 30 hours, I found myself looking around a bit warily for signs (earth rumblings, steam coming up for the ground, gods or giants cursing us mortals for always having to take our birth control when we’re hanging out in their most celebrated places, etc) that Mount Vesuvius was about to throw up on us just like it did back in 79 A.D.** I kept chanting, “I don’t know, I don’t know, I don’t know where I’m a-gonna go when the volcano blow”.

Jimmy Buffett is probably some sort of prophet. He sings about being born 200 years too late to be a pirate, but his lyrics to “Volcano” really might have been useful to the people of Pompeii and Herculaneum about 1900 years before he wrote them. Elton John knows that “If someone else is suffering enough to write it down / And every single word makes sense / Then it’s easier to have those songs around”; I think the mummified ancient Italians MR and I saw today would have agreed with EJ and would have known, “when all hope [was] gone”, to “tune in and turn [Volcano] on”***.

Pompeii itself is actually rather confusing; there are few signs around to indicate what exactly one might be looking at, which I suppose encourages visitors to splurge on tour guides, but MR and I got an inexpensive guidebook and wandered around through the dust (I pretended it was ash, and that the granite was pumice, and that, when I tripped, it was because of small earthquakes and not because I was wearing flip-flops with no tread). We spent about two and a half hours around Pompeii and left exhausted and covered in dirt (volcanic ash), and greeted the Circumvesuviana with less than excitement. The ride to Herculaneum was not long, but the walk to the site – from the train station in Ercolano to the Scavia, or excavation – took us about 20 minutes****. We thought we were helplessly lost and found that the people of Ercolano are rather unfriendly, but eventually we stumbled upon the Scavia and were let in by a bored-looking guard who barely even glanced at our tickets. I found myself wishing we had not paid.

At first, Herculaneum seemed much less exciting than Pompeii, which surprised me since everyone had told me it was the better of the two sites. Herculaneum is significantly smaller to begin with, and only a small portion of the ancient ruins have actually been excavated, so in contrast to Pompeii’s sprawl we could see all of Herculaneum when we entered and looked down. The exciting thing about Herculaneum, though, is actually that rich people lived there. Whereas all the houses in Pompeii look like they’re built for people smaller than me, the ones in Herculaneum actually seem livable. As I said to MR, it was easier to relate to Herculaneum; though Pompeii was obviously fascinating, in Herculaneum I found myself considering the atrocities of Vesuvius’ eruption in 79 A.D. and picturing the citizens who lived inside the walls.

Eventually we trudged back to the Circumvesuviana station and headed to the Naples train station, where we got our bags and boarded a train to Roma Termini. We then successfully caught the next Leonardo da Vinci train to Fiumicino, the airport, from whence we snagged a taxi (though unfortunately we ended up paying more than we said we would because we were too exhausted to haggle properly) and ended up, as this post began, at the front doors of the Marriott Courtyard*****.

And so my Italian adventure during the summer of 2009 reaches to an end. Exciting travel – for my travel days are usually the most exciting – to come tomorrow; stay tuned for my final hours from the Italian (no longer Tuscan, as I am in Rome) broadband!

*This came as even more of a surprise since MR and I were actually somewhat forced into McDonald’s for supper. Honestly, the Naples train station has a McDonald’s and a little place that sells baked breakfast breads. I should note that the hamburger I consumed was not much like the ones that the McDonalds’ in the US serve; in place of ketchup and mustard (which were 20 Euro cents extra, and I was not about to shell out $4.00 for a pack of ketchup) was some very strange sauce with peppers in it. Still, it was a hamburger.
**As I am now sitting in a Marriott, you can be relatively well assured that this did not, in fact, happen. The mountain stayed quite quiet. I ended up a little disappointed in the end by its silence. I really thought there was going to be some sort of action – hailing pumice stones at the very least – but there was nothing.
***I’m currently preparing sacrifices in the form of Britney Spears and the entire band of Nine Inch Nails to the music gods just in case they exist, because I know I’m not cut out to be a DJ. I promise, I wasn’t trying to be a DJ. I just thought it was a nice lyrical connection.
****We later discovered that this was because we were given directions on how to drive there, rather than on how to walk there. Really, the walk was only about 8 minutes. It was nice, on the way back, to cut it short a little.
*****Quick shout-out here to MR’s dad, who made the Marriott possible. IT IS AWESOME. Thank you, Mr. R.

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

NHWAAAAAH NHWEEE NHWAAAAAH

Today MR and I headed to Capri (pronounced CAH-pri, which surprised me - I had been pronouncing it like the silly-looking pants), which we had expected to be somewhat like Positano but was in fact drastically different. We wore our swimsuits, which was wildly unneccessary for most of the day, as we did not even go to a beach and spent almost all our time on boats or climbing up what one guidebook listed as 900 stairs (we think it was probably fewer than that, because a lot of the trail was just uphill without any steps).

The swimsuits DID come in handy when we were rowed into the Blue Grotto*. The Blue Grotto was an experience for several reasons. Perhaps the most interesting part of the adventure was the very beginning, as we waited to climb down from the big boat that was traveling around the island into teensy little rowboats that were apparently** going to take us into the Blue Grotto. Many of the women in Italy are relatively slim; this stereotype apparently does not hold true for tourists, Italian or American or other-an, to Capri, and MR and I were surrounded by creatures that can only be aptly described as whales***. As I nervously surveyed these ocean-dwellers, trying to calculate which two would be in a boat with MR and me, two little New York girls asked if the four of us could ride together. We quickly agreed. I guess the New Yorkers had been eyeing our company, too.

The New Yorkers were quite a bit of fun. They had just finished college (I didn't ask which one) and their parents gave them a trip to Italy for graduation, which they seemed to be enjoying immensely. The four of us sat on the floor of our rowboat, which lamentably was not commanded by one of the cute younger rowers, and took pictures of each other while we waited in line to enter the Blue Grotto. The Grotto itself had still not appeared, but I took this in stride (silly attitude) and figured we would row around a corner and see the cave entrance.

We did not.

Our rower instead pulled us right up against the cliff, where there was a tiny little hole, and grabbed on to a line. When the wave finished a big swell, he pushed the boat down in the water enough for us to just squeak through the opening. I was extremely terrified that we were going to be crushed and then drown, but somehow (probably because our dude knew what he was doing) we survived and entered the Blue Grotto.

It was awesome. I can't really describe it, except to say that it felt like I was on top of a light blue mirror in the dark, which doesn't sound that cool, but if you're ever anywhere close to Capri you should do it. Also, if you're in a boat with a rower who will let you swim for less than 5 Euro each (we were not, which did not deter the New Yorkers), SWIM. Supercool.

Anyway, the rest of the day was spent, as I said, hiking and finishing the boat tour. MR and I spent a good portion of the afternoon reading on the terrace of a cafe at the waterfront, where we ordered cones of gelato and got gelato in a dish with cones beside it (very strange, since I know for a fact that a cone of gelato in Italy is a cone with gelato in it). At long last we took the ferry back to Sorrento and had a filling but unimpressive supper - nothing to write home (or to Justin) about. Now we are preparing for tomorrow - Pompeii and Herculaneum! - MR by reading guide books and myself, as usual, by reading a novel on the subject. She is probably getting more USEFUL information out of her books, but I am definitely more interested in Pompeii and the fictional characters who may or may not escape (I still have about 100 pages left).

One quick note about yesterday before I leave the internet cafe: on the SITA bus ride home - the one described, as I lounged on the beach, as terrifying - MR and I had to stand as there was no longer room to sit. Standing for an hour clutching your beach posessions on an Italian bus while it weaves precariously through the mountains = very, very, very scary. I built a lot of character.

Ciao for now - US on Friday!

*Part of our boat tour around the island, which, if you ever go to Capri, you should definitely do.
**I should note that at this point neither MR nor myself had actually seen the entrance to the Blue Grotto, despite having searched for it among the cliffs leading down to the water. This was mildly disconcerting to me, but I decided to roll with it, having attempted to adopt the motto: "It's Italy."
***Some of them even made whale noises and looked like they yearned for the ocean and for krill. I'm not being cruel, just honest. MR heard the whale sounds, too. We even took pictures of the biggest whale, which looked particularly beached. Photos will be uploaded soon, don't worry. NHWAAAAAH NHWEEE NHWAAAAAH (that's what whales sound like).

Tuesday, June 16, 2009

Wish You Were Beautiful

Jimmy Buffett sings that "Salt air, it ain't thin / It can stick right to your skin / And make you feel fine". Right now I am lying "beside the sea there", and he's correct about the salt air. He should have maybe extended it to salt water, though - I'm pretty sure I'm never going to get it out of my hair. MR and I have spent quite a bit of time in the swimming area off of Positano today and could probably fill a salt shaker with the salt that's stuck to our hair and skin. I can feel my cuts healing already.

A la mode of the other beachgoers, MR and I hung our cover-ups from the tops of our beach chairs and can look up to watch them wave around in wind that seems never to reach us. It is at least several million degrees* down here on almost-ground level** and I am watching my dress in envy.

Meanwhile I'm trying to keep from watching the fat old men in Speedos. Why would they think that Speedos are the way to go? Seriously, did someone play a cruel joke on them or are they playing a cruel joke on us? And why are all the children at this beach naked? I feel like Coppertone and Richard Simmons decided to have photoshoots at the same location and forgot to coordinate (Simmons' would be the "before" shoot, obviously).

It is nice to have a relaxing day at the beach after yesterday's 10 hours of travel, during which MR and I hauled around all our clothes etc for the month in Italy as well as the souvenirs (okay, wine) we're taking home. Though we had a relatively uneventful trip, we were both exhausted by the time we reached the Hotel del Corso and barely managed to reach a nearby restaurant - the Don Vincenzo - for supper before falling asleep. When we return to Sorrento this evening we plan to explore a little more, and this evening we will sit out on the terrace of our hotel with a bottle of wine. I've been looking for a tin cup for a chalice and for honeysuckle, but neither seem to be native to Italy, so I will resort to living in the spirit of Jimmy Buffett if not in the actual style.

I feel I should reflect on our ride here - we took the SITA bus, which was more terrifying than the time I rode with my family and the Clarksons and George Washington*** through the mountains of Jamaica (probably because I am now old enough to understand the difference between fear and fun). However, though today is a restful day, it does not seem to be a very reflective one for me - concerning the ride or life or even food (sorry, Justin). Perhaps it is because I am tired from all the travel or finding it difficult to pontificate on my teensy BlackBerry keyboard or just in a vapid mood; whatever the reason, I cannot seem to muster up the will to do much more than make sure all of my vampire-white skin stays under the umbrella and lift my finger to switxh between country, oldies, and Jimmy Buffett on my IPod****. To be fair, I have done two productive things today: swimming and beating off the man selling miniature beach chairs. I mean, seriously, I know I'm short, but I really don't want to spend my gelato money on miniature beach chairs. Even if I were really really rich I wouldn't want to buy miniature beach chairs. It's like inviting mice to drink beer and build bonfires on your mantel.

In conclusion, I would like to note that "The skies are too clear / Life's too easy today". I haven't had any beer (surprise!) and haven't found any daquiries, but if I had I'd bet they'd respectively be too cold and too fruitiful. After all, no matter how bubbly the Bellinis or how cold the gelato, "There's no place like home when you're this far away".

*Farenheight, not Celsius
**Hence the amount of time spent on the salt water
***Our driver, who liked to say his name to Americans a lot
****The IPink has been appropriately left at the hotel.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Sorrento and Beyond

MR and I just arrived in Napoli after quite a long train ride. We had a six-person compartment with an Italian couple who spoke no English, but somehow we figured out how to actually carry on a conversation with them. Tres interesante. Also on the train I almost smacked a gypsy girl who got into an argument with me about giving her money. She kept pointing to my wallet and saying, "si!" while I growled, "NO."

We stopped in the McDonald's at Napoli Centrale to get our bearings and figure out whether we would be staying in a Marriott here in Naples or Capri or heading on to Sorrento as planed. Sorrento it is, and now we're checking the Circumvesuviana train schedule to make sure we can get to the Hotel del Corso. Wish us luck!!

Ciao for now.

Sunday, June 14, 2009

La Storia?

Spotted: yours truly trying to rewrite history a la DI. DI himself has not been heard from since he headed to a party at the Brit villa (for which he had to dress up as GI Joe). Taken? We hope not. LCLC

Food from Last Night

Dear Justin*,

Last night MR and I walked the streets of Venice for over an hour searching for a little restaurant on a canal. Apparently snack bars and pizza places have a monopoly on the canal spots, though, because we could not find a restaurant by the water. Eventually we just began looking for any old restaurant where we could just sit outside, but it turned out that without a reservation we weren't going to be able to get in. At long last we returned to San Marco (more than an hour later after we'd left that area) and inquired at the Ristorante do Leoni, which is set back a ways from the water but still technically on the Grand Canal. I have to say, if every time I wandered aimlessly for an hour I ended up at a place like the do Leoni, I would wander aimlessly a whole lot more.

The waiters found a table for us outside immediately and refused to allow us to sit on our own; instead, they insisted upon pulling out our chairs for us and making sure we were pushed in sufficiently. MR introduced me to Belinis, which are AWESOME, and then I ordered an insalata mista and the Taglioni alla Astice** and MR got her typical spaghetti bianca. We were pleasantly surprised to receive complimentary shrimp cocktails and wonderful bread before the meal, and our pastas were extremely good (though mine came with a lobster shell on top of it, which I did not particularly appreciate). We declined to order dessert since we had plans to spend the rest of the evening in front of a group of musicians in San Marco, but were brought tiny complimentary cookies anyway. The wine we ordered was also left off the bill.

As we walked away, we discussed the fact that we had ended up with more free food than ordered food. At first we named the restaurant ridiculous, after further reflection, though, we realized that the service and little free foods had hooked us and that we would not be able to resist returning to the Ristorante do Leoni during subsequent visits to Venice - and that we would recommend it to everyone we knew (by the way, if you're ever in Venice, go to the Ristorante do Leoni). Overall, we gave them four thumbs up.

Dessert was chocolate cake and Spritzes*** in San Marco while we listened to the same group of musicians we'd picked out as the best the night before. MR got some videos of them playing, so look for that when we finally load everything on our computers.

This morning we found the Jewish Ghetto (even with directions we had trouble - it's REALLY tucked away) and have been strolling through the streets just looking around at everything. There are tourists EVERYWHERE. I ran through San Marco and along the end of the Grand Canal some this morning and thought I was playing flag football or something I had to dodge so many people. I almost purposefully took out some of the ones holding sunbrellas**** just because they were so annoying, but tried to be all zen and yoga-esque and ran around them in the end.

Tonight we head back to the Villa to spend the night and pack up all our things before the Amalfi Coast. Hopefully the train will be more comfortable than it was on Friday. Cross your fingers for me :) -

*I was really only going to do one "Dear Justin", but after last night's supper experience some requests came in that I do another. I guess in making fun of DI I discovered that documenting food is actually a good idea...
**Pasta with lobster
***Apparently THE cocktail of Venice. We couldn't figure out what was in them, but they were slightly bitter and had slices of orange as well as huge green olives hanging out on a stick in the drink. Yummy.
****Umbrellas that certain ethnic groups of people use to shade themselves from the sun

Saturday, June 13, 2009

Ahhhh, Venice!

MR and I arrived in Venice yesterday evening to find that the hotel we had booked was absolutely wonderful. The only downside is that the room we're sharing is only large enough for the two twin beds inside it. However, we aren't exactly spending our time in the room, so it has worked out well so far.

Last night we ate at the Taverno San Travaso, which must be the best and best-hidden restaurant in Venice. MR had been there on previous visits and miraculously led us straight to it - we didn't even get lost, though I admit to thinking MR had no clue what she was doing when she led me to the entrance. The restaurant is through a secret terrace-garden and the streets around it were deserted. It turned out I should have trusted her, though, because the food was amazing (Re: my Dear Justin* of last night).

After supper we wandered around the Piazza San Marco, where three groups of musicians were set up with grand pianos, violins, and various other instruments (one had an accordion!!). The piazza is huge, and in front of each of the stands with musicians playing (there were also lots of empty stands with no one set up) were tables and chairs where people sat having cappuccinos or wine (which we have resolved to do tonight after a lighter supper - last night we were too full to consider ANYTHING). We heard a fair amount of Mozart (some of which was played very well and some of which was butchered) as well as some Frank Sinatra. All in all, I decided that Venice was pretty awesome.

My opinion was fortified today. MR and I strolled through the city looking at lots of glass and mask shops; we ventured to the Rialto but decided it was too crazy to spend much time near (although right now we're back near the Rialto at an internet cafe called "Venetian N@vigator 2") and then took a semi-accidental tour of the city by boat. The plan was to take the boat up from one end of the canal to the other, but MR and I got on the wrong boat and ended up seeing the city from another angle entirely before deciding just to travel back down the canal to where we had started. Our idea was to head to the Jewish ghetto after our boat tour, but since it took so much longer we decided to go to the ghetto tomorrow - we figured things were probably more likely to be open on the non-Jewish Sabbath anyway. Thanks to SB and DI for their help with directions...I promise we'll actually use them tomorrow :/.

Ciao for now -

*By the way: Dear Justin, breakfast (free from the hotel) this morning was amazing! It was a huge buffet with eggs and sausage and all kinds of breads and fruit and cereal and juices. We got to sit outside on the hotel's terrace, which overlooks a canal. Food is awesome!

Boating

Spotted: Francesco* in Venice while MR and yours truly were riding the vaparetto. Stay tuned for pictures. LCLC

*Okay, it was a boat named Francesco.

Friday, June 12, 2009

Covert chiacchiera

Spotted: OK doing recon while yours truly was in Venice. Updates include GF underwhelmed by food offerings of Fiesole (can't get pizza at 4.15?!) apart from excellent nutella gelato (as Justin knows). Also spotted: DI going out with brit drunkards (no update on the paper), CD & ABo out in Florence with TF and her sisters, KM playing on computer and OK herself wallowing in having her Own Room, wearing clay mask and playing music (clay mask is practice for Botox). Meanwhile, MR and yours truly have not been spotted - out of town, out of sight - enjoying the robes of the Hotel Bonvecchiati.

All parties are wondering: how well will the covert gossip continue?

You know you love reading it - LCLC

A Page from a Boy-Diary

Dear Justin,

Today I had a roll with honey for breakfast like usual, but I didn't have lunch until nearly 4pm because I was in San Lorenzo's Market in Florence. I had to make my train to Venice, so I didn't even have time to get a REAL lunch - just a sandwich from Chef Express!! ABe had the same kind but I don't know how he liked his because he had to go to Rome.

MR and I ate supper at a restaurant called Taverna San Trovaso in Venice. I had the insalata mista to start. Actually, I had a roll first, but I didn't order that, it just came with the table. Then I had Gnocchi 4 Fromaggi, which was really big and fluffy and the best gnocchi I've ever had, and MR had some spicy spaghetti that she liked quite a bit. THEN we split a filet, which was basically the first time we've had red meat in three weeks, and we both agreed that it was amazing even though we couldn't finish it. After supper we got gelato in the Piazza San Marco where musicians played some pretty awesome music - you would have loved it, Justin - but we decided that the gelato in Fiesole is still better.

Can't wait to see what tomorrow holds dietarily!

Switch from Sails to Steam

Last night was the final night we all spent at the Villa. It may not be the end of an era, but it's certainly the end of a great three weeks, and while I didn't always get along with everyone, we had a good group and at least kept each other entertained (Chiacchiera, anyone?).

MR, ABo, ABe, PK, DI, CD, and I went up to J. J. Hill's late - after some of us had finished first drafts of our papers and others (DI) had not even started. We saw Francesco, who asked repeatedly after RK, and had a drink and fries while generally making fun of DI for whatever he did or said. Luckily he's a good sport and a sweetheart - otherwise I think we would have left him alone*.

This morning most of us slept in, then spent a few hours working on our papers. The printer broke, so we resorted to emailing our papers to CJ and CL, and I also managed to lose my key** and break my IPink***. Luckily, I found my key in the dryer - it was dirty and wanted to hang with my laundry - and ABo fixed my IPink. Meanwhile, BMo, KM, and RK took pictures and made video tours of the Villa, and DI watched basketball and pretended to begin his paper. The maids let us be lazy - they left breakfast out until 10:30, which is unprecedented. I was shocked and awed (in the best way possible) to return from my run**** to find I could still have a roll with honey. The maids also waited until late morning to make our beds and clean our rooms. Have I mentioned that daily maid service is really nice?

MR and I are currently on the train to Venice, where we'll spend the weekend before heading to the Amalfi Coast. We'll be back at the Villa to spend Sunday night and have a party with OK, ABo, and DI (if we can convince him to come back up to Fiesole). Monday we'll hop on a 5-hour train to Sorrento, where we'll stay for 3 nights while exploring the Amalfi Coast (MR has an awesome itinerary laid out for us, so I'm pretty excited).

Now that business is out of the way, I should mention that I've been thinking a lot about oceans recently. Maybe it's because CJ loves teaching about the ocean, or because I've been writing about the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, or because Jimmy Buffett is currently playing on my IPod*****. Aren't oceans interesting, though? I can't imagine such huge expanses of seeing NOTHING but the same everywhere - waves, I mean, on the ocean; I hear (okay, read) that you can sail for days in the Pacific just seeing waves and nothing else. There's no sign that you're even moving absent the wind in your hair. Is that thrilling or terrifying or just boring? I can't decide. Thinking of it makes me want to go out and try it. I think it must be one of those things you either love or hate. I would miss land, I'm sure - but it seems that every time you do something new and exciting there's something to miss, and I don't agree with living by the Aerosmith philosophy ("I don't want to miss a thing", anyone? Sidenote: how creepy was it that in "Armaggedon" Steven Tyler's daughter had a sex scene to that song? The answer is, "very").

It's a Catch-22, kind of, because to miss things you have to create experiences with people and places to miss on the next experience.

I think I would like to see the Great Pacific Garbage Patch for myself. I want to go through the Horse Lattitudes. I learned the other day that they got their name because ships would hit a wall of no wind there and throw their horses off the side to conserve water. Freaky for sure. I wouldn't want to hit doldrums in the middle of a giant horse graveyard. Luckily, ships have switche from sail to steam (Jimmy Buffett says so), and if my adventure to and through the Great Pacific Garbage Patch ever actually happens I won't have to rely on the wind.

Anyway, I'm off now to try and focus back on canals and Venice so I don't concentrate on oceans all weekend. Ciao -

*Maybe. His boy-diary, Justin, is pretty easy to make fun of. None of us managed to read it, but he says it has complete descriptions of all his meals sÍnce January 2nd. He likes to remember what he eats, I guess.
**Really, on the last day.
***Ít's an IPod, but pink. It's also used exclusively for evercising, particularly running.
****Cue "Chariots of Fire", please
*****Markedly different from the IPink, especially since I am definitely not running right now.

Getting Away?

Spotted: RK in the train station several hours after leaving the Villa. ABe spotted by RK at Chef Express. Meanwhile, DI finished a first draft of his paper and wrote a "Dear Justin".

MR and yours truly still on the train to Venice - sitting beside a dumb biddie and her boyfriend Bo.

Ah, (tren)Italia! LCLC

Thursday, June 11, 2009

Back in the Saddle Again

It has been six months since I wrote my last academic paper for a class, and despite my initial excitement about the prospect of revisiting the most common (if not most loved) assignment from college, I have quickly tired it. Six months of informal writing (a.k.a. verbal convulsions on paper) confused all useful skills I once had, and I am now unsure of whether to cite quotations with the MLA or with asterisks and witty comments.

In other (and wildly more exciting) news, this morning, despite extreme dehydration and exhaustion (both the result of my evening at 21, for which I was technically overage), I made the decision to attempt a jaunt up the hill on the loop. Since today is my next-to-last day of actually living at the Villa (MR and I will be back Sunday night and Monday morning after Venice to pick up our bags before we head to the Amalfi Coast), I figured I needed to fulfill my goal of making it around the loop twice without stopping.

By my second arrival at the top of the big hill, I was ready to stop. I was only three hills (one not very difficult and two just blips) away from making it around twice without stopping, but I was at a state of imminent dry-heaving* and thought it might be time to throw in the towel. Suddenly, though, just as I was about to stop, I thought, "Which is worse? Almost throwing up, or almost finishing?"

Almost finishing was worse. I finished and did not end up dry-heaving, probably because I was having too much trouble breathing to take the time to dry-heave. Spending the rest of the afternoon exhausted, dehydrated, and sore has been so worth telling everyone I can find that I made it around two times.

Anyway, it's time to get back to gossiping on GChat** and finishing my paper so I can make it up to J.J. Hill's tonight. Ciao -

*Here is when you should begin playing inspirational music, like the Indiana Jones theme or maybe even Carmina Burana.
**During library parties, which happen at least once a day, we like to get on GChat and make fun of each other online. That way, we're still quiet and we can have several chats going on at once so that we can make fun of several different people. We have also learned how to group chat. Today we sat in the library and were completely silent while GChatting for no good reason. It was awesome.

Status check

Spotted: CD refusing to speak anything but French while MR and yours truly sang "Michelle" by the Beatles. Later, spotted with ABe, ABo, and PK by BMc in the kitchen gossiping about DI and flow charts. ABe, PK, DI, OK, and yours truly have since moved in to the library, where some are writing papers and others are doing anything but. Signs of ABo in the beginning of the day, but that gave way to more mysterious disappearances. ABo, are you hiding more than just your Glee Club status?

We hope so. LCLC

Clubbing

Spotted: KM and RK leaving 21 and heading toward Central Park at around 2am. "Some extravagance young love had been to/ Or old love on an impulse not to care"*? LCLC

*Robert Frost, "The Investment" (and yes, I know - Chiacchiera is so much better read than Gossip Girl.)

Wednesday, June 10, 2009

Shuttered

Spotted: OK and ABe chatting in the library with yours truly after illicitly opening the shutters (suspiciously closed during the day - mourning for the loss of CJ?). PK nowhere to be seen despite promises to attend a library party. LCLC

Song Without Words

Spotted: ABe leaving a Glee Club meeting from which ABo was conspicuously absent. No sign yet of ABo, but ABe has been heard singing in the shower (DI provides percussion in creative ways). Still unclear to some whether a song without words is a song. LCLC

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Chaicchiera

...the Italian Gossip Girl.

I do not watch Gossip Girl, but have seen it on occasion (SB is kind of obsessed) and know enough to BECOME Chiacchiera. So: ABe, ABo, OK, KM, BM, PK, MR, CD, RK, TH, and DI: look out. And DI, stop trying to alter history with my blog.

You can't handle the truth!

Tomorrow I play a JAG officer in our class simulation of a meeting to discuss suggestions to the president for actions on Guantanamo Bay, the International Criminal Court, North Korea, and Iran. I'm maintaining that we should treat all detainees at Guantanamo as POWs (as per Geneva III Article V), not re-sign the Rome Statute to make sure that Americans don't get tried by the ICC, and hold off on nuking North Korea and Iran (but keep an eye on them and nuke their deployment zones as soon as they make a move). I am unsure as to whether these positions are in holding with a JAG officer's, but I was thinking earlier this evening that if I tried to take on a Tom Cruise or Jack Nicholson persona (A Few Good Men, anyone?) that everyone would be at least amused. However, when I shared this idea with ABe he suggested that I might want to practice my impersonations. I fear they are worse than my JAG positions on the issues.

In other news, I made it up the hill twice (twee-chay?) this afternoon. I had to take a breather in between - I walked up the small hill with no shade that comes right before the big hill on my second go - but I considered myself revitalized at the beginning of the big hill and started up. I quickly realized that I did not, in fact, WANT to run up the big hill again; however, I had already committed to do it, and so I plodded very slowly for what seemed like a very long time in the very hot sun until I finally reached the top. The dichotomy* between my mental state (exuberance) and physical state (nausea, cramps, exhaustion, heat stroke, and probable imminent death) accompanied me until supper, where I ravenously consumed fried cheese sandwiches** and was revived by lively if forgettable conversation. All I really remember is that PK still refuses to adopt me as his younger sister and DI has decided to imitate me by answering "unclear" to questions whenever possible.

No new development on the Great Pacific Garbage Patch paper or on anything else really - tomorrow evening (after the last class!) we are all heading down to Florence for a wine tasting and a lesson on wine and cheese, and afterward we will probably go out to celebrate the end of the program. ABo, who has been gone since yesterday afternoon (taking the LSATs in Italy!), will be back to participate in the simulation and festivities.

A final note: I have decided to become rich writing self-help books, because people need a lot of help. Like, a LOT of help. No initials on this one. You know who you are.

*SB, this word is for you.
**They're like grilled cheese sandwiches, only after making the grilled cheese sandwich you then deep fry it. Seriously.

Monday, June 8, 2009

Stimulated by Simulations

It has been a long day of class and discussions pertaining to issues in class. We are all concerned by now with the Simulation on Wednesday (during which I will play a JAG lawyer representing military interests in policy decisions about Iran, North Korea, the International Criminal Court, and Guantanamo Bay) and with our final papers*. DI, OK, ABe, and I had a power session in the library after supper, to which I contributed very little but from which I learned quite a bit, especially about international events. Though I have never exactly lived under a rock, I feel that I have spent the past four years trying to play catch-up with international events - I barely know what happened historically, much less recently! This was only mildly irritating for most of my Georgetown career; since I have begun my foray into International Law, it has been somewhat debilitating. Luckily, MR briefs me on major news events every morning so I don't feel entirely like the villa's idiot.

After-class discussions grow significantly louder and more argumentative than those monitored by CL and CJ. DI, PK, and ABe have had several near-screaming matches this afternoon that were interspersed with breaks to check out funny websites and eat. Watching them made me think of "To Kill a Mockingbird", in which Scout marvels over Atticus' ability to joke and have lunch with the lawyer arguing against him. Unfortunately, I think I may not even be as well-informed as Scout on the issues they were arguing over.

We are starting class early tomorrow, so I am heading off to bed. Pictures for Cinque Terre and La Spezia have been posted, and new ones have been added to the albums for Pisa, Firenze, and Siena. Enjoy!

*I have decided to write mine on the Great Pacific Garbage Patch, which is absolutely fascinating and disgusting. I strongly recommend learning about it as soon as possible.

Sunday, June 7, 2009

D-Day and Brunch

As soon as PK, OK, ABe, ABo, MR, and I arrived in Monterosso al Mare, the first town in Cinque Terre, we knew we were in for a long day. While we walked around taking pictures of the beach the weather alternated between drizzling and gentle rain, but as we began the extremely long and difficult climb toward Vernazza it began to pour in earnest. We were quickly covered in mud and cold rain and sweat, and spent the following five hours trekking through the mountains (and I really mean mountains, not hills) between the five towns. Despite the immediate declaration that it was most certainly D-Day, we managed to have an amazing day and complimented MR several times on her suggestion that we spend the weekend in Cinque Terre (we weren't even sarcastic). This may have been partially due to our knowledge that we were acquiring buns of titanium* from the extraordinary amount of steps that we ended up climbing.

We stopped in Vernazza for thirty minutes to use the bathroom and revitalize ourselves with pizza, water, and cookies. The hike to Corniglia, the third city, was almost as tough as our first round, but the rain managed to peter out and we only had to deal with mud and our fear of falling off cliffs in addition to extreme exhaustion. Lunch in Corniglia turned out to be quite the ordeal, as we were served by a grumpy old man who actually refused to bring us the check until I had finished my pasta. When it became apparent that the pasta was not going to be finished, he finally brought it, but he directed a rather terrifying stink-eye at me during his walk to our table.

Our luck with the weather held for the rest of the day, and the climbs to Manarola and Riomaggiore were not nearly as difficult as the first two rounds of the trail. We arrived the train station soaked, exhausted, muddy, starving, and wishing we were spending the night in La Spezia so we could shower and change before taking the train back to Firenze. When we got back to our hotel we commandeered the public bathroom and wiped ourselves down with paper towels before changing into dry (but still dirty) clothes and trying to tamp down on our sweat smell with deodorant. We spent another hour and a half in La Spezia (the shopping mecca) while waiting for our train back, during which we should have eaten supper but did not, and then ended up on a EuroStar with our own compartment for the three hours it took to get to Florence. Because it was D-Day, we had to wait thirty minutes in Florence for our bus up to Fiesole and did not arrive back at the Villa until after midnight.

It's funny, but when I began telling people that story, they uttered exclamations of horror and sympathy; in fact, the entire day, though mildly disastrous, was one of the most wonderful I've spent in Italy. I was with a great group of people, none of whom freaked out or acted poorly, and we kept our spirits up and had a great time together. It was an adventure rather than a misadventure; where we might have been grumbling about returning back home, we were joking about how much gelato we would eat when we reached the final city. Even on the train home we talked about what a great idea it had been to go and how much we had enjoyed it.

I thought about that on my run this morning. It seems like there are always more excuses not to do something than reasons to do it. I have been trying to DO things lately, no matter what excuses I or others come up with, and have found that it is even more rewarding than I expected. I also think my time in Italy has mellowed me out a little, though I am unsure as to whether this will follow me back to the United States. This morning several of us had decided we would all go in to Florence and have brunch before exploring the Academia (where David is) and San Lorenzo's market (where cheap shopping is). Though we had tentatively planned a meeting time of 11:15, only two of us were ready then; it took about an hour for everyone to assemble and finally make it up the hill to the bus. It then took a while for us to find the place we planned to go for brunch, and then several members of the party were disappointed to discover that it was an American brunch restaurant and not an Italian one**. All in all there was quite a bit of dissatisfaction with the waiting and then the unpleasant surprise for some - but besides being hungry (I had expected to eat a little sooner), I felt very pleasant. It was raining again, which made me glad that my bag arrived after its Bologna vacation with my raincoat and umbrella, and the restaurant - Ari's Diner - was crowded so that we had to wait to be seated. There was no end to the list of things to complain about, but I had nowhere to be and nothing pressing to do, and the rainstorm was in Florence, where I was actually standing around, shivering a little, loving the smells of the wet stones mixed with whiffs of hash browns and omelets.

Being dissatisfied only seems to breed dissatisfaction, and so I am trying to avoid it in my life from now on. For the rest of the day various members of the party sulked at various times - their moods were as unpredictable as the rainstorms that were ravaging Fiesole but leaving Florence with only a few scattered sprinkles (just to throw in a tried and true metaphor). I tried to stick with upbeat crowds (that would be the sun, in case you're still trying to follow the metaphor), and had a good long contemplative look at David in the Academia while tempers cooled all around. I haggled quite well at San Lorenzo's market - at least, I drove the initial prices quoted to me down significantly. I probably still overpaid by virtue of being American, but I'm pretty sure the stuff I procured was gotten at a good price. I felt proud of myself, anyway.

Jimmy Buffett sings, "it's still a mystery to me / Why some people live like they do / So many nice things happenin' out there / They never even seen the clues". I suppose the new attitude I've adopted is somewhat unrealistic in the grand scheme of things, but after applying it for only a few weeks I am stunned by how often people box themselves in to unhappiness rather than expending a small bit of effort to find satisfaction. I have also noticed that I am impressed by people who do expend the effort, and that those are generally the people I thought were the most interesting and enjoyable to be around even before I started trying to DO.

Tomorrow is another day of class - only three left - and I desperately need to get some sleep in so that I don't miss anything. Good night -

*stronger than steel

**I am unsure how they missed that, since it was part of the plan

Saturday, June 6, 2009

Meccas and Terres

OK, MR, ABo, ABe, PK, and I had an awesome time last night in La Spezia, which we jokingly dubbed as a shopping mecca when we arrived in the afternoon. It actually lived up to our nickname, though - OK and I each ended up with some inexpensive dresses that we are certainly planning to wear out to J.J. Hills for Francesco.

The city did shut down at about 10:30 while we were walking back to the Hotel Firenze & Continentale (a good choice, if I do say so myself - we got two triple rooms right in the center of La Spezia for a reasonable price). We became convinced that the nice, comfortable town was actually just a facade and the Italians were closing up in preperation for a gang fight (which would quite obviously consist of singing and finger-snapping). Unfortunately, none of us witnessed any fights or gangs (or even singing) from our windows.

Currently we are waiting on the platform for a train that will take us to Monterosso al Mare, the top city of Cinque Terre. It is overcast but not raining, so we hope they will let us hike the trail! If not we plan to take the train through the various cities and hike around them enough to make up for the 5-hour hike we should have had.

Wish us luck -

Friday, June 5, 2009

You Ain't Alive...

Montgomery Gentry reminds us that "you ain't alive if you ain't breakin' a sweat". This morning marked the second day in a row that I not only made it up the hill, but went the entire running loop without having to stop. I have found that the truth is "the highs are higher than the lows are low", although I feel pretty low when I reach the top of a steep hill and realize that the rest of run is still, in fact, uphill. However, "it ain't about easy", and knowing that I am just that tough makes me feel pretty darn good.

We're about to have a wonderful (free-ish) lunch here at the Villa before heading off on the train to La Spezia, where we have a hotel for the night. Tomorrow we'll hike through Cinque Terre and probably come back to the Villa in the evening, although depending on the weather and money we may change our minds and spend Sunday at the beach. We've all brought our readings for class with us and have no obligations to anyone but each other for the weekend, so we can do whatever we want. It's simultaneously one of the best and loneliest feelings I've ever known - it seems like a wonderful thing to experience for a short period of time, but not like the way I would want to live my entire life.

Anyway, it's lunchtime now, so I'm going to take my traveling backpack (which, if you recall, has already seen Bologna and is ready for another interesting trip) downstairs and eat another great meal. Ciao!

Thursday, June 4, 2009

Non-answers from Edwin Starr

I’m sitting out on the patio looking over Florence and writing this* in Microsoft Word because the internet is not working out here. MR has decided that, despite her initial excitement to write in her own blog, the lack of internet was a sign that she should do her reading for class instead. I don’t usually get signs like that for some reason.

Now on to the real point. War! (Crimes): What are they good for? International lawyers.

For the last hour of class today we discussed war crimes, which is a topic that has always puzzled me. CJ gave a very good outline of the importance of the difference between just and unjust wars and also noted that one of the most difficult parts of training new soldiers is explaining to them that war is not simply a free-for-all, but I cannot help but still have trouble understanding how a group of people could engage in killing another group while adhering to rules. When I try to think about it logically, war in general seems so incredibly barbaric to me. How is it possible that in this advanced day, when we have wireless internet (which admittedly does not always work) and space stations (at least, so long as you aren’t a conspiracy theorist), that we still get out on a battlefield and try to KILL each other? It all seems very childish and medieval, which I suppose is probably because the entire idea was conceived and is still largely carried out by men.

Edwin Starr says that war is good for absolutely nothing, which honestly does not help me figure it all out very much at all. If I leave the question of the purpose of war, however, and move on to war crimes, I begin to understand things better. I am pretty sure that war crimes were invented by (and, I suspect, for) international lawyers, who seem to have written them into the law after struggling with the same questions I am. Really, though, jus en bello and war crime laws don’t appear to me to be solving that many problems worldwide. If I were empress of the world**, I would require that countries sit down and have talks (which I hear they sometimes try). I believe that the men who decided war was a good idea need an order to sit down and talk, because they’re probably the same type of men who refuse to ask for directions. Wouldn’t it be nice if war were just a big misunderstanding that could be corrected by asking for directions?

Tomorrow we’re heading up to hike through Cinque Terre, which should be a nice break, and Sunday we’re planning to hang out around Florence. Time to go now for another awesome supper at the Villa. Shout-out to ABe for joining me in plaid day! Plaid shorts and skirts should be worn as often as possible and in the largest groups that can be coordinated.

*This is the phrase MR had hoped to start her blog off with today. I know this because she discussed her disappointment at not being able to write it. I figured if I used it we could all win.

**A title I aspire to

Tuesday, June 2, 2009

The World Ain't Slowin' Down

Lunch today was very interesting. I sat with CL, Bm, MR, and ABe, and we had some good discussions about Outliers* and fears of flying. Flying came up because of the AirFrance disaster that just occurred - we talked about the phenomenon of everyone becoming terrified of planes after one crashes and the statistical probabilities (all of which we almost certainly made up) of actually being on a plane that crashes, which we determined was probably low. Apparently AA is absolutely terrified of flying, and has only done it as of late because of his love for TA. As I sat at the table listening to the roots of and justifications for AA's refusal to fly (and the ramifications of that refusal on his career), I began to think about the lengths people go to in order to avoid that which they do not enjoy. Don't they realize, I wondered, that they are stunting their lives in order to skip out on a tiny bit of discomfort? How can you give up so much in exchange for so little? The world does not cave in to your fickle desires the way a harried mother does to a child who refuses to eat broccoli.

Like Ellis Paul says, "the world ain't slowin' down" - and it definitely is not going to stop to make sure it accommodates everyone, either. I became especially unimpressed when I learned that AA USED to fly, but ended the habit after one bad experience. Ellis Paul also asks, "weren't you the kid that just climbed on the merry-go-round"? What happened?

I could quote songs on the subject all afternoon - Patty Larkin suggests, "might as well dance"; Jimmy Buffett reminds us that "life is just a tire swing" and talks about "waiting for the next explosion"; and so on - but I think you've gotten my point by now. In case you have not, here it is: get over yourself and try to live your life just a bit. I'm not one to give advice on how to live it - some say working hard is a waste of your soul; others believe not working is a waste of your time. I don't know what is wasteful and what is not, but it seems to me that there is no point in going to Six Flags and refusing to ride on a roller coaster, or spending the day in a swimsuit at a lake but refusing to get in. The rides may seem terrifying at the time and the water may seem far too cold to consider, but when the day is over and you're driving home, you'll regret not trying it. I'm using these examples because I've made both of those mistakes - and I've also ridden the coaster and jumped in the lake when I really didn't want to. Thinking back on those times today, I remember that I was scared and a little sick after the coasters and cold and mildly miserable after the freezing water, but I don't remember those FEELINGS. I remember FEELING glad that I had done it, and feeling happy to be laughing with my friends about it, and feeling so content with walking on the ground and so comfortable and warm after a long shower. Thinking back on the times that I didn't take the plunge, I just remember knowing that it would have been worth the fleeting feeling of sickness or cold.

Six Flags and cold lakes were just examples of DAYS - metaphors (not very thinly veiled) for the difference between the satisfaction of action and the regret of inaction. How, I wonder, do people live their entire lives like timid days at Six Flags with "should haves" on the ride home? It is even more difficult to imagine that mentality when I just got back from a run (during which I ALMOST made it up the hill and resolved to go to the top tomorrow) and sat writing this in the sun overlooking Florence. The question that keeps running through my mind is, "Are people crazy"? The pervasive answer seems to be, "Yes".

*I was extraordinarily glad that my mother had required me to read the book over Christmas break, since it meant I could actually contribute to the conversation.

Monday, June 1, 2009

On "Running"

Well, since my bag with my exercise clothes finally arrived last night after a nice vacation in Bologna (which is where it was...I'm still not sure why), I decided today to take a run. Since we live on a "hill", there is not a whole ton of flat ground to run on, and I ended up on a loop with a gigantic and extremely difficult hill at the end. After a week of no running and lots of pasta, I was pretty positive the world was ending halfway up the thing and stopped to walk with my father's voice in my head reminding me that "the slowest way to get anywhere is to walk uphill"*.

I have decided never to go a week with no exercise and lots of pasta again. I think that running up that hill was the most painful thing that has happened to me in a very long time.

It has been rainy today, so I spent the rest of the afternoon relaxing in the library and uploading my photographs for those with access to the world wide web to enjoy. We spent a long time at supper and I have now made my way back to the library, where I'm working and listening to Bach with OK, DI, and ABe. Overall, this is a pretty awesome place to live.

*When I tried to walk downhill, he would suggest that I should not because downhill is easy; it's just a controlled fall. I would then start walking on flat ground, but he would write that off as ridiculous because everyone can run on flat ground. When I finally asked when I could walk, he answered, "Never. You're going on a run."

Home is where...??

Yesterday BM moved in to the apartment MR and I have been sharing for the past year and a half. Since MR and I are roommates here at the Villa, I guess it had not struck me that we have reached what I believe as a 22-year-old I can properly refer to as the end of an era. MR and I have already begun to split up our assets - the fish to her, some magnets to me - and to sell what we do not want to take to our new homes. It is actually kind of funny to be in a class together now as we have never known each other in that capacity before.

The experience at the VIlla reminds me a bit of St. Paul's - living with your classmates and teachers creates such a different learning environment. It isn't so much the talking about class out of class, but the knowing each other so much better that we understand each other better in class. At least, that's the way it seems to me. It's also more difficult to get away with BS, because in a group of 12 everyone can tell whether you did your reading or not.

After being at the Villa for less than a week, I find myself wishing that I could come up with a way to move to Italy for a year - specifically to the Villa. I have realized, though, that I would need to move my family here as well. I do not know whether it is because SB and I are so close in age or because Mommy and Daddy just raised us well, but though I of course enjoy my time away from home it seems that when everywhere I go I consider whether SB would like the beers and bars or Mommy would like the view or Daddy would like the museums that perhaps I should just bring them there and have it over with. In talks with others here I have garnished that I feel that way more than most, which I believe is because of going away to boarding school at 14. Since I left home at such a young age, we have hypothesized, it was natural for me to articulate my wishes that my family visit me or that I go visit them, and I did not break the habit upon entering or leaving college. I do not particularly want to break this habit, but I have noticed that most college students, being away from home for the first time right on the heels of the teenage years of fighting with their parents, do not have this habit at all. After the first year or two of college they will begin admitting that they like their parents and even tell their parents on the phone that they miss them, and some will even speak to their parents daily. I think, though, that leaving home right after years of fighting comes as more of a relief to most children and perhaps even to their parents, and this seems to create a different kind of independence. Personally, I am in no hurry to acquire it.

The moral of this is that I know no matter how much I love a place, I will always go home. I am not like Hemmingway or Fitzgerald; I may romanticize my time abroad, but I cannot picture myself as an ex-pat. Would I enjoy being abroad for six months, or a year? Probably I would if SB were here as well, and maybe I would if I were on my own. It is difficult to be sure of what I would enjoy and when I would begin to long for my place back in the US. The saying "home is where the heart is" trips me up. I know that by "heart" the phrase refers to the people you love, but my heart, right now, is right here between Fiesole and Florence; I am sure that I will always love this place and the calmness and happiness it seems to bring everyone who visits. I wish my family were here to see and experience it, but I do not wish I were home; my heart is not in the United States, though I know my home is.